11.5 - 11.6
Where do I even begin?
Getting to stand in the presence of the genius, Tadao Ando's, architectural masterpieces not just once but multiple times? Delighting in the plumpest oranges bought off the road in Teshima? Biking down Naoshima's lumpy hills while overlooking the setting sun’s warmth upon the Seto Inland Sea? Spending 48 hours of simple but such filling, enriching, and inspiring adventure with two of the best people in the world? SEEING THE YELLOW PUMPKIN IN THE FLESH (though this was actually quite underwhelming because some other tourists took 10-15 minutes posing which made me have to rush standing next to the pumpkin. Also, it really is just a yellow polk-a-dot scultpure)?!
I hope the pictures can convey the magic of the islands since my words probably won't be enough. But, if I had to try explaining in three points:
1. If you don't know Tadao Ando, please stop reading this and go search his name. Or click on this link to see a snippet of the legend. Naoshima houses many iconic Ando projects, and we experienced three: the Ando Museum, Minamidera Art House Project, and Chichu Art Museum. All serve their own unique purposes, however, their tying theme is founded on Ando's ability to make them structures of seamless transition and interaction--a holistic, perfect relationship--with their surrounding environments. For example, the Chichu Art Museum directly translates to "under ground museum" because it is fully submerged in the earth...BUT I've never felt more in touch and encompassed with natural light, the everchanging open sky, and the fluidity of motion and time. Another point of INCREDIBLE-NESS is how Ando's projects helped resurrect the Seto islands from becoming forlorn communities to becoming one of the most sought after art grounds in the world. Here and here are two more articles that provide detailed explanation regarding the relationship between Ando, Benesse, and Naoshima. 2. These islands have a sense of isolation, but not one of lonely isolation...moreso peaceful, restful isolation? Perhaps these are true homes to solitude, as both Teshima and Naoshima seemed to give its visitors a day when silence and nothingness were not only allowed, but encouraged. Despite traveling with friendos, I was able to have many moments of solo thought, appreciation, and wonder. 'Twas like a piece of a sweet, tart clementine. A clementine comes as a whole, but at least for me, it is enjoyed when eating each piece one by one, giving me time to savor the indivudal bursts of citrusy tangy juice. Likewise, Teshima and Naoshima was a whole experience, especially in that I got to discover its magic with friends, however, the small pouches of solitude made the trip not just good but amazing. Weird thoughts, I know, but who's surprised.
3. If we slow down to notice what's around us, we can start to see just how MUCH is happening under our noses. Both a Turrell/Ando exhibit and the entire Teshima Art Museum reminded me of this extremely simple but frequently forgotten truth. And of course, I can drone on about the details of each experience; however, I think it's better for one to discover and see for themselves.
Oooo mysterious.
Alas, this is yet another adventure I hope to store in my being for life both throughout and beyond Japan...I know there's so much these corners of Japan have to teach me, yet I am always surprised at just how much I reap from each place. If nothing else, let's hope I can leave this coutnry being able to not only remember, but apply, these discoveries of plenitude and entrichment.
Thanks Naoshima and Teshima! You were so good to me!