2.9.22 (but reflecting on 12.28 - 1.3)
Over about a month ago, two of my favorite people came half way across the world to visit me in Japan. What a joy and honor it was to introduce my home away from home to THE KARLA and THE LEO of Boston, Massachussetts. Although Japanese vending machines with warm drinks, unlittered metropolitan streets, and the extreme ends of street fashion were few of many wow-factors for Leo and Karla, a mega-showstopper was our Hokkaido adventure.
Day 1 - 2: Chitose, Lake Toya!
After flying into New Chitose Airport from Tokyo Haneda Airport, we train-bus hopped our way to Lake Toya, a volcanic caldera lake in Shikotsu-Toya National Park. And what an adventure (first of many...) The JR train was literally spilling out by the time we were cramming onto the train, and by some miracle (along with the conductor physically pushing us in) we got on safe, sound, and squished for the next two hours. This dropped us off at a very isolated train station that didn't even have ticket gates...but alas, we got onto the local bus and made it to our minshuku, Itoiya, alive.Tired, yes, but alive!!!
One of my goals as their guide was for them to experience true Japanese hospitality, and thus, a minshuku (Japan's bed and breakfast like inns that are usually low key and family-run) on the edge of a volcanic lake couldn't have been any better. All was quiet but for the owner's toddler giggling behind the desk and the granny's kitchen tinkering before calling us down for a lavishing, home-cooked meal.The one-room tatami stay was ~very~ humble, but the local TV channels introduced Karla and Leo to the extravagant world of Japanese TV, which could be described with a "shake-shake-shake-shakespeare." With filling meals, a hot onsen bath, and a long futon-sleep, we were able to fully enjoy the next morning's crisp winter walk around the lake. In a way, it felt like we were the only people in the world and the whole lake, mountains, and snow was meant for us and us alone.
crotrain!wded
we made it to our bus stop
our minshuku, itoiiya
our cozy room
that view though
dinner is served! wow! what a spread!
onsen tamago and soba
breakfast happiness
ice detail
the lake!
the toya mountains
road stillness
detail of walk 2
detail of walk 3
MOUNTAIN
Day 2 - 4: Niseko Ski Resort!
The adventure proceeded as we tried to figure out how to get from our middle-of-nowhere minshuku to the Land of Perfect Snow: Niseko. Now, mind you, this is the Land of Perfect Snow that is regularly 3-5ft deep starting December...which means travel is not the easiest in the world. Yet, we had a knight in shinging armor, our taxi driver Akio, or as we like to call him, Mr. Akio Cruise. Not only did he take on the 1.5 hour drive from Itoiiya to Niseko, he also made pit stops at a famous gelato cafe and a photo-taking spot overlooking the whole Lake Toya landscape (breathtaking.) My joy was out the ROOF when he offered to take us to the random, but infamous gelato cafe...the creaminess and icyness and flavour~ of my salt-cream and milk-tea gelato was heavenly.) Throughout the drive, we learned he studied for 4 years at UCLA back in his yungin days, and is now an avid K-pop and hollywood-movie fan. At long last, after reaching our destination, we bid our farewells unaware that it wouldn't be the last time we see each other...
Niseko was a true ski town, as it was jam-packed by stumbling ski-shoed bodies left, right, up, down, and around. Although we didn't get around to skiing ourselves, we did get to fully embrace Niseko's infamous powder snow during our stay! And it was as soft as it was powdery--just imagine the fluffy unicorn that elicits an "IT'S SO FLUFFY I'M GOING TO DIE" from Despicable Me's Agnes, but in snow form. I legit would just trust-fall into the snow and land without a sound (but with a giant, goofy smile on my face.) Along with encountering the whole other world that is the Ski-Bum-Scene, Leo and I discovered the strategy behind overpriced ski-resort dining after having spent over $70 on two 10-inch pizzas and a bowl of spinach. Our strategy: go all out at the town convenience store. And oh boy, did we haul. Because, well, how could you say no to $4.50 fresh tonkatsu-don bentos, $1 Hokkaido coffee milk, and $1 Hokkaido red-bean ice cream bars!? Our adventure did peak, however, when we found out all modes of transport were booked from Niseko to both our next destination and to the airport for our flight out of Hokkaido. Two hours were spent unsuccessbully calling all the taxi companies, hotels, and bus companies to try and get us somewhere. It felt like a defeat until we half-jokingly decided to search for our man Akio and DM him asking for a drive. And low and behold, our knight in shining armor...Akio was up at 3am answering our request and agreeing to drive the whole 2.5 hours on our last day. When I saw his message, I literally squealed and gasped and screamed at the same time.
Finishing our Niseko Village Stay with one of the most beautiful snow-shoe walks I think I'll ever get to experience (beautiful came from 1) the sun glazing the snow to create interweaving ripples of shadow-diamonds-shadow-diamonds and 2) getting to just breathe and stand in silent awe with Leo and Karla) made the stay one to remember for a long time.
photo point and gelato brought to you by akio
posing wth mt yotei!
blanket of snow
snow coverage...!
ice ice baby
cold parking lot manager
cafe~
skier 1!
skier 2!
that depth though
divine light on divine life
Day 4 - 5: Niseko Ryokan, Chitose!
As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to ensure that if Leo and Karla were going to take one thing away from this trip, it would be the power of Japanese hospitality. And if any place was going to meet this goal, it was going to be a ryokan - the traditional Japanese inn, which has been a form of stay since the 8th century. Ryokans are known for their state of the art service, a glorious dinner (typically kaiseki style) and breakfast, luxurious tatami rooms with either beds or pre-made futons, and of course, a steaming hot onsen spring available for use anytime throughout the stay. I suppose one can say that this is the Japanese interpretation of paradise.
Our ryokan, Moku no Sho, was nestled in Niseko's deep snow-blanketed forests. It glowed of warmth and evoked a hearth-like presence inside the blizzarding dark Niseko night. Upon entering, we saw...potato clouds? This ended up being the lobby's super fancy lighting sculptures, but yes. You know you're in a good place when you're greeted by potato clouds.
But more importantly, we were immediately welcomed into the guest room and seated to finish check-in logistics with warm root tea, Niseko manju, and homemade apple juice.
I was singing my own version of Annie's "I think I'm gonna like it here."
It would take too long to fully explain the wonders of this stay so I'll make do with a list of 7 things that we'd probably only be able to experience there:
1. Having access to a floor to ceiling library while indulging ourselves at their Hokkaido potato bar.
2. Skinny diving into the Niseko powder snow before rushing back to the steaming onsen water...then following our daring selves with a long conversation while soaking in the hot spring and letting snow fall upon our heads.
3. Eating a potato that tasted like a sweet potato but was actually just a potato, among other never-before-seen Hokkaido foods (maguro and shrimp and uni sashimi, Hokkaido wagyu, Hokkaido seared abalone, multicolored carrot slivers, unlimited local sake, the works.)
4. Using the complimentar massage chair as a photoshoot prop for our snowman doll
5. Realizing the ryokan only plays one 7-minute koto track on repeat EVERYWHERE you go...it was almost like a sci-fi-trapped-in-a-time-loop aura by the time we realized it was literally 24/7. But I guess if we're to be trapped, I wouldn't complain being trapped here. An open beverage bar? Full bowls of ikura? 24/7 access to rotenburos? No complaint.
potato clouds
welcome snack
potato bar selfie!
enjoying the hoka hoka potato
our friend enjoying a massage
hokkaido wagyu with the sweet non-sweet-potato
sashimi plate!
uni!
veggie plate!
new years breakfast platter
look at this breakfast!
the forest surrounding our stay ryokan
selfie after getting to the airport safe and sound
To wrap up...!
We embarked on our final adventure the next morning to catch our flight out of Hokkaido. But little did we know the state of snow we were in...until Mr. Akio Cruise called me in the wee hours saying he was trapped in a snow hole, trying to call a friend to help lift him out. So again, when I say it snows in Niseko, it really REALLY snows in Niseko. Amazingly, he was able to leave the situation safely, in one piece, and arrive on time at the hotel. Holy moly...and he proceeded to drive us to our destination, in a blizzard, singing 80's rock songs and talking about his incredible past life as a former member of Toyota's drag race team. Thanks to this hero (who also had the time to buy us omiage for the road) we got to the airport with so much time to spare, and so ended our Hokkaido sojourn. This followed with a trek all the way to Yakage via trains, buses, shinkansens, and our feet...we essentially travelled 1100 miles from the very north to the very south of Japan. But, that is a post of its own.
I couldn't be any luckier getting to discover, with Leo and Karla, a part of Japan that, despite having lived here now for a year, was filled with so much newness. And I'm so grateful that they were so patient with me when running into the many unexpected situations that arose throughout our trip. Although I fear the trip was more hectic than we had planned it to be, I now hold many memories of restful stillness, filling conversations, deep soaks, rosy quiet, and jewel-like beauty...and I sincerely hope this could be said for Leo and Karla as well. And well, if not, maybe we just have to do a part two in the future, of which I would do in a heartbeat!
